Friday 28 December 2012

Raw verses Processed Pet Food


Whilst I strongly believe a raw diet is far superior to a cooked and processed diet such as commercial pet food, there are certainly good and bad raw diets. 

Healthy raw diets depend on the quality of the ingredients, the variety of the contents, how the food is prepared, a complete diet achieved over several meals, knowledge of the supplements required, which type of bones and meat produce are suitable, the source of the ingredients, the digestibility of the chosen proteins and the quantity of food and supplements given.

The majority of Veterinarians and pet owners are in full support of processed commercial pet foods.  My criticism of this tunnel vision view comes from the fact that the incredible support of pet food companies is from a place of ignorance and blind trust rather than from intelligent choice. 

I know, I was in this position myself only several years ago.  Most people don’t question what they should feed their pets (cooked or raw); it’s not even a choice that enters their mind.  The supermarket has entire isles dedicated to the pet food industry.  Every Vet Clinic I have ever took my pets to, also display an array of brightly coloured bags and cans of pet food, which advertise health and longevity. 

Coincidently, the pet food companies are training veterinarians in pet nutrition. Only recently I found out that veterinary students at The University of Melbourne are trained by IAMS pet food.  No wonder most veterinarians frown upon homemade, raw diets, when they have been brainwashed by the market leaders in pet food.
As a result, pet owners are being advised by their Vets to buy commercial food as its 100% balanced and complete, unlike homemade diets.  Is this what they are taught by the pet food companies? 

The supermarkets also cater specifically for pet owners on behalf of the pet food companies, so where is the choice?  The only pet food advertisements I have ever seen on the television have been marketing campaigns for commercial, cooked, heavily processed foods. 

Whilst there are many advocates of the raw diet, the popularity of the billion-dollar pet food industry is without doubt a powerful force and influence.  It will take some time to break through the tunnel vision views of the majority but slowly, I think it’s happening.

Commercial pet food is cooked, processed and packaged for a long shelf life.  The pet food companies have made feeding a pet incredibly easy, very convenient, quick and pet owners don’t have to worry about the diet being balanced or species appropriate.  Labels clearly tell pet owners the product is ‘complete and balanced’ and pictures of healthy, happy pets on the advertisements install faith in the buyer without a second thought. 

When I, on occasion, had my doubts about this type of nutrition, my Veterinarian would assure me that this was the best way to feed my pets.  I was told homemade diets can be very dangerous, difficult to balance and can, long term, cause serious health problems due to deficiencies. 

I don’t believe Veterinarians are saying this to sell more pet food.  They are giving this advice, as they truly believe homemade diets are bad and that commercial pet foods are indeed the best choice to ensure healthy animals.  This is, no doubt, what they were taught at Veterinary School.

However, times are changing and pet owners are becoming more empowered by slowly learning that homemade raw diets can in fact be a healthy choice.  Raw pet foods are on sale now in pet food supply outlets such as ‘The BARF Diet’ by Dr Billinghurst and ‘Big Dog Barf,’ a family owned Australian business.  Slowly, they are gaining popularity with both dog and cat owners.  There are also a staggering number of informative books available on how to feed our pets a raw, species appropriate diet.  Whilst there are several texts that make the task of creating a raw pet diet quite daunting, there are texts such as ‘The Barf Diet,’ which simplifies the preparation and is very clear in all aspects of this method of feeding. (Billinghurst 2001)

In support of the raw food movement is Dr Jones (a Canadian Veterinarian and author).  In his years of practice he has observed vast improvements in cats and dogs after switching from cooked, processed diets to homemade food.  Improvements include shinier hair coat, no more bad odours, improved muscle mass to fat ratio, fresher breath and cleaner teeth, reduced itching, urinary tract health, less infections, reduction in arthritic symptoms, less allergies, less hairballs in cats and a decrease in stool volume.  (Jones 2009)

In addition to the above credits given to the Raw Diet, author of ‘Whole Health for Happy Cats, claims there is an elimination of gastro-intestinal problems, the urinary tract maintains itself at a species appropriate pH of 6-6.5, the immune system gets stronger, long haired breeds shed less and in the long term its cheaper than commercial pet food. (Arora 2006)

The greatest fear of switching to a raw diet by most owners I have spoken to; tends to be that raw animal produce contains pathogens, which are potentially harmful to our pets.  Author of ‘Food Pets Die For,’ agrees with this.  Raw food can contain huge amounts of E. Coli and Salmonella that even freezing can’t kill. (Martin 2008) 
Chicken and organ meat in particular carry contaminants dangerous both to us, and our pets. Domestic cats and dogs are very different from their wild relatives who have long fasts between meals, which allow the toxins to be eliminated from the body. (Brown 2006) 

If these claims were true then why have my pets over the last several years of feeding raw food never been sick from the diet? 

In fact all I have seen is massive improvements in health.  I totally disagree that raw food can cause more harm than good.

To answer the question is author of ‘Raw and Natural Nutrition for Dogs.’  Dogs (and cats) digestive tracts are very short, their stomach contains highly concentrated hydrochloric acid, which breaks down not only fat, but also protein, bones and harmful bacteria such as E. Coli sometimes found in raw food.

The canine digestive tract is developed to kill germs and stop them from multiplying.” (Olson 2010)

Dr Pitcairn, Veterinarian and author, claims that in 15 years of recommending a raw diet to his clients, he has never saw a case of salmonella or E. Coli poisoning in any of his patients.  In total support of raw food for cats and dogs, the key ingredient missing from heavily processed, cooked pet food is the,
quality found only in fresh grown uncooked whole foods: Life Energy!” (Pitcairn et al 2005) 

Cooked foods are dead foods.  Their enzymes, proteins, vitamins, fats and plant produce are all either altered or completely destroyed in the heating process.

Against raw diets and a strong supporter of cooked foods for cats and dogs is Veterinarian and author, Dr Schenk.  Placing a heavy emphasis on ‘foodbourne illnesses’ she claims, “The practice of feeding uncooked diets should be discouraged.”  She advises, any pet on a raw diet should be checked by a Veterinarian every 6 months.  As the book is an advocate for homemade cooked diets it gives a massive number of recipes and an enormous amount of detail in regards to each and every ingredient in the diet.  However, the task of switching from commercial pet food to her dietary advice is somewhat overwhelming.  The author even after writing the book specifically for pet owners to follow, writes,
Formulating a homemade diet is a difficult task.”  (Schenk 2010) 
Thank goodness this wasn’t the first animal nutrition book I read, I would surely have given up the task of switching diets immediately.

After seeing the benefits (I never thought possible) of the raw diet for the last several years in my own cats and dog, there are still several small drawbacks to making our own raw diets at home that need to be considered.

-Time required for preparation
-Freezer and refrigerator space needed
-Providing a variety of foods to ensure an overall balance in the diet
-Initially costly to buy supplements, oils, high quality produce
-Meat grinding machine (if necessary for non-bone eating pets), it takes up space in the kitchen.
-The fear of not getting quantities of ingredients correct and causing deficiencies or toxic overload
-Fussy pets addicted to commercial pet food!

However, as practice makes perfect, it really doesn’t take that long to work out a system that’s good for our pets and that fits into our lifestyle.  The sheer pleasure of seeing healthy, happy animals with a high quality of life is truly rewarding.


Now, for all those pet owners who remain faithful to the pet food companies…. 

There is a general consensus between animal nutritionists, (whether they support the cooked or raw homemade diet) that most commercially prepared foods are not providing our pets with health and longevity.

Cooked, processed, long-life pet foods:

-Are overcooked
-Contain too much fibre in the way of cheap fillers
-The protein is poor quality which is taxing on the liver and kidneys
-The cooking process destroys nutrients including enzymes and amino acids.  As a result, the overall quality of the protein suffers (Olson 2010)
-Full of cheap grains
-Too many meat by products which lack integrity
-Chemical additives
-Toxins e.g. pesticides, herbicides, hormones (from cheap animal factory farmed produce)
-Produce that would not be considered suitable for humans
-Lack of regulations when compared to the human food industry
-There is no such thing as one meal being complete and balanced (Jones 2009)
-Dry pet foods adhere to our pet’s teeth and gums and with a large amount of sugar from all the grains; generate periodontal disease (Hodgkins 2007)
-Too many grains in cat food when they are obligate carnivores
-Dry food is unnatural for cats.  They are required to drink more. However, as they naturally do not drink a lot of water, this places strain on the kidneys causing concentrated urine, urinary crystals, stones, renal failure
-Have an alkalizing effect on the urinary tract which should naturally be acidic
-Can lead to obesity (pets will crave more due to the food being deficient in real quality nutrients)
-Are misleading a trusting public as to the ingredients in their products
-The source of ingredients is a scary thought
-Are of low quality, most company costs go into advertising and marketing campaigns

Unfortunately I find most pet foods to be unethical.  Knowing what most of the ingredients in their products actually are, I’m not surprised the Vet Clinics are busting at their seams with sick cats and dogs.

“only about half the actual contents of the pet food are listed on the label due to minimal legal regulations in the pet food industry.” (Martin 2008)

According to Veterinarian and author Dr Jones, pets on commercial, cooked, processed diets are being taken to clinics with bad allergies, skin and gum disease, arthritis, kidney problems and autoimmune diseases. 
“Many of the chronic diseases we see today are directly attributable to poor quality food…” (Jones 2009)

In conclusion I do believe pet owners are waking up and starting to question why their pets have so many allergies, diseases, ongoing problems that require expensive and ongoing veterinary care. 

As we are questioning the source of our own food, we are also questioning the source of our pet food.  Bad practices in the world of food produce are now thankfully being exposed. 

Factory farming of animals, in particular, pigs and chickens are now relatively well known, thanks to organisations such as Animals Australia and the Royal Society for the Protection of Animals.  Slowly we are learning that nicely packaged animal produce in supermarkets are products of pain, suffering and contain a massive amount of chemicals used in the food industry to keep profits high and sale prices low.   

The popularity of free-range food labels and organic plant produce is thankfully increasing.  This is evident when we go into the supermarkets and each year, more and more space is taken up by free-range eggs, rather than the eggs from caged birds. 

As the consumer drives the food market, not the farmers, it is up to each and every one of us to make more ethical, kinder, more healthy and as a result more educated choices both for ourselves and for our pets.


References:
Arora, S 2006, ‘Whole Health for Happy Cats.’ Quarry Books USA
Billinghurst, I. 2001, ‘The Barf Diet.’ SOS Printing Pty Ltd, Australia
Brown, A 2006, ‘The Whole Pet Diet, Eight weeks to a Great Health for Dogs and Cats.’ Celestial Arts, USA.
Hodgkins, E.H, 2007, ‘Your Cat, Simple New Secrets to a Longer, Stronger Life.’ Thomas Dunne Books, USA.200
Jones, A. 2009, ‘Veterinary Secrets Revealed,’ Four Paws Online Ltd, Canada
Martin, A. 2008, ‘Food Pets Die For, Shocking Facts about Pet Food.’ NewSage Press, USA.
Olson, L 2010, ‘Raw & Natural Nutrition for Dogs, The definitive guide to homemade meals.’ North Atlantic Books, USA.
Pitcairn, R. H. & Pitcairn, S. H, 2005, ‘Dr. Pitcairn’s guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats.’ Rodale Inc, USA.
Schenck, P. 2010, ‘Home Prepared Dog and Cat Diets Second Edition.’ Blackwell Publishing, USA.
Websites:
Animals Australia, The Voice for Animals. http://www.animalsaustralia.org/




Arthritis and Kidney Disease


In memory of Delius 1993-2011

Arthritis is a painful degenerative disease that is most often seen in older cats and dogs.

Wear and tear on the joints, destruction of cartilage, inflammation and degradation of synovial fluid, toxic build up in the joints all lead to a poor quality of life where it is painful to move.

What are the major causes of arthritis?

Major contributors to arthritis are:

- a long term highly processed diet of low quality pet food
- a lack of raw 'live' food in the diet
- overweight
- lack of physical activity
- hip dysplasia ( which can be genetically inherited)


Whilst most conventional Veterinarians treat the symptoms with anti-inflammatories and pain killers, the more holistic approach is to treat the underlying cause by changing diet, lifestyle and introducing herbal and food supplements.  The holistic approach is more about treating the whole individual with an understanding that everything in the body is connected and as a result one affected body part will affect all other parts.

So how do we prevent and treat arthritis and if possible avoid or minimize pharmaceutical drugs?

Holistic treatments include:

Antioxidants eg: vitamins A,C,E and selenium
Herbal preparations
Homeopathic remedies
Magnetic therapy
Acupuncture (this helped my cat enormously, he enjoyed the treatment too)
Massage
Chiropractic treatment
Glandular supplements
Omega 3 and 6 oils

Whilst there is no harm in trying any of the above, in my experience the number one way to treat and avoid arthritis and all other degenerative diseases is to introduce a fresh, human grade, mostly raw food diet with some good quality food supplements.

Here is a list of supplements that can safely be added to your cat or dog diet:

- digestive enzymes (taken on an empty stomach they reduce inflammation)

- fish oil (cod liver or salmon oil)

- antioxidants including vitamins A, C, E, selenium, CoQ10 enzyme, ginkgo biloba and grape seed extract

- glucosamine (it activates growth of new cartilage cells)

- chondriotin (which is actual ground up cartilage)

- MSM 'methylsulfonylmethane'. This is an excellent sulfur based natural anti-inflammatory

- green lipped mussel, an anti-inflammatory

-sea cucumber. Assists with lowering inflammation, very rich in nutrients

- skullcap and mullein. These are herbs for reducing pain

- yucca. A herb that reduces inflammation

-alfalfa. A wonderful herb for alleviating the inflammation and pain caused by osteoarthritis.


In my own experience, I had a 14-year-old cat with painful joints that was diagnosed with arthritis. Unfortunately, this was prior to my learning about natural, alternative treatment methods. 

The Vet treated my cat with a long-term use pharmaceutical drug called 'Metacam' (meloxicam) which is a non-steroidal anti inflammatory (NSAID). 

Without having carried out any research on this form of treatment, I later realized (once it was too late), that this drug was contributing to his degenerative kidney disease. 
In all fairness, this drug was not solely to blame.  Up until this point my 14-year-old cat had been eating a mostly commercial pet food diet.  As I now understand (after years of researching) heavily processed pet and human food is the biggest cause of all degenerative diseases! 

Pharmaceutical drugs are simply a quick fix, a reprise from the symptoms, a break from the inevitable break down of an unhealthy body, a fake temporary illusion of health until the side effects overcome the benefits and the body surrenders to toxic chemicals and organ failure. 

Most drugs do not provide a cure; they provide relief of symptoms along with unwanted side effects.  They mask the underlying cause.  The real problem goes unresolved and untreated.

Once the diagnosis of irreversible kidney damage was clear, I carried out extensive research on the dangers of taking long-term anti-inflammatories.  This led me to searching for alternative treatments that did not have serious side effects like most pharmaceutical drugs.

I wanted to find a more natural approach that dealt with not only the symptoms but the underlying causes too. 

Was it possible to reduce pain and inflammation without drugs?

Was it possible to improve the health of the joints and for my cat to get some more movement back?

Once I had been giving my cat natural supplements for approximately 4 weeks I started to decrease the dose of his anti-inflammatory drug and after 6 weeks he was only receiving the natural supplements.  After 2 months I can honestly say I had a different cat.  He became kitten like at 15 years old, he was being told off for jumping up onto the kitchen counter tops again, he had more energy, his appetite increased and after 6 months his coat became glossy again. 

The treatments which worked wonders for my cat was as follows:

These are daily doses; I gave my cat, 5 days a week

500mg vitamin C
1 capsule salmon oil
1 capsule blackcurrant oil
100iu vitamin E
1/4 capsule CoQ10 enzyme
1/4 tablet ginkgo biloba
250mg glucosamine and chondriotin
250mg MSM
½ tablet digestive enzyme (given on empty stomach)
½ capsule of probiotic powder
1/8 tsp green powder (spirulina, chlorella, wheat grass, alfalfa)

This was carried out in conjunction with a raw food diet.

He lived for 3 more years drug free with a high quality of life showing no signs of painful joints, until succumbing to kidney failure at 18 years old.  The damage had already been done with years of heavily processed commercial pet food.  If only I had known about the raw food diet and holistic treatments earlier....... 

Support for Kidney Disease


Based on my 18 year old cat Oliver

One of my cats is a domestic longhaired 18-year-old called Oliver or more affectionately known as 'Big O.'   
For the first 12-14 years of his life I fed him commercial cat food products with the occasional pack of raw pet food mince meat (also a commercial product found in most local supermarkets).  Over those 12-14 years he went to the veterinarian on numerous occasions and was given an endless array of anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, vaccinations, amongst other pharmaceutical drugs to deal with a variety of non-serious ailments.  At the time I thought I was doing the right thing.

Whilst the commercial cat food was inexpensive, the vet bills were over the years incredibly high and Big O cost me a small fortune every time there was a health issue.

When I became interested in a more holistic approach to health and diet I included my pets in that decision and changed their diets to a more natural and raw, species appropriate diet. 

Supplementing Olivers raw food diet has been an ongoing work in progress which has been changed many times with a view to providing him with the best nutrients to overcome a decline in renal function, asthma, arthritis and occasional bouts of severe sinusitis which is usually accompanied by a loss of appetite.

For the last two years he has been consuming a diet of minced raw chicken bones, meat, offal, yoghurt, eggs, pureed vegetables (jars of baby food work wonders), probiotics, digestive enzymes, essential fatty acids (salmon oil and an omega 6 oil 2 to 3 times a week), plus supplement powder that I make myself.

Since this diet started, his arthritis has greatly improved, his bouts of asthma are now few and far between, his kidneys are hopefully coping better with a higher quality food source and his fur is soft and shiny. He no longer takes any antibiotics for his sinusitis or anti-inflammatories for his arthritis as I believe he is coping really well and is so much better without all the pharmaceutical drugs.

The supplement powder which I make, is made up of (all human grade ingredients):

-Kelp powder contains iodine, which supports the thyroid gland, provides a valuable source of minerals.  Note: too much can be toxic (Billinghurst 1993)

-Brewers yeast an excellent source of B vitamins, amino acids and minerals.

-Vitamin C, a powerful antioxidant, assists the immune system.

-Colostrum assists the immune system, arthritis, and the intestinal tract.

-Alfalfa high in nutrients is an antioxidant and an anti-inflammatory.

-Dandelion leaf powder is a powerful diuretic, flushes the kidneys and cleanses liver.

-Spirulina         high in protein and other nutrients, boosts energy, it is naturally alkaline, supports metabolism.

-Sunflower seeds (ground) contain an array of nutrients, palatable to cats.

-L-lysine prevents bone loss, assists the immune system.

-Lecithin granules, an antioxidant, liver support, increases energy levels, assists absorption of fats.

-Bromelain (a digestive enzyme) to assist digestion and absorption of nutrients, it also reduces inflammation.

-Calcium is essential for healthy bones and teeth, critical for muscular contractions and for the rhythm of the heart.  It is also important to note that Vitamin D must be included in the diet.  Foods that contain Vitamin D are egg yolks, mackerel, sardines and tuna.  Vitamin D is required for the absorption of calcium in the digestive tract.  The amount of calcium added to the cat and dog diet depends on the type of raw diet you are feeding and how much fresh bone is included.  Please read my article on Calcium in the diet.  Its very important to get the correct balance of calcium to phosphorus levels in your pets diet.

-Glucomsamine & chondriotin for joint health and to ease arthritis.

Initially, the supplement mix I made was directly from The Holistic Cat by Jennifer Coscia.  In the last 6 months however, the above list of ingredients is my own modified version of this authors supplement mix specifically to meet Olivers needs.

Now, after having learnt more about herbs and how they can assist both nutritionally and physiologically, I will be adding nettle and astragulus to the mix plus some borage seed oil directly to his food.

 Other herbs and supplements that I have been or will experiment with over time are:

-Aloe Vera if taken internally it is a good antioxidant, it is known to stimulate the immune system and provides an alkaline environment.  Aloe Vera is safe for both internal and external use in cats and dogs. (Tilford et al 2009)  I will use this when Oliver has any kind of stomach upset.  On occasion he vomits and the aloe vera juice helps to reduce the acidity in the gut.

-Slippery elm, a very safe and well known herb, which helps to lubricate the digestive tract, ease constipation and reduce inflammation. Slippery elm is also good to ease the respiratory passages for pets with bronchitis.  During a time when Oliver was constipated I mixed some psyllium husk, water, pureed pumpkin and a sprinkle of slippery elm powder into a syringe and gave 10ml to him.  Im pretty sure it helped, as he was busy in his litter tray the next day.  I also give him a little slippery elm powder mixed into some Aloe Vera juice if a stomach upset has made him vomit.  This is also good for us too, providing very quick relief.

-Echinacea I have used this immune supporting herb on several occasions.  When Oliver has symptoms of flu (which he has had many times since he was very young) I add a few drops of Echinacea and goldenseal plus 500mg Vitamin C to 4ml water in a 10ml syringe and give that to him orally.  Since doing this and with the support of a good raw diet, his flu symptoms are less severe, they are of a shorter duration and there is no need for any trips to the vets which no doubt would end in more antibiotics.  Echinacea does require a healthy number of antibodies already present in the blood for it to work effectively and it must be taken at the onset of symptoms.  Once infection has taken a hold it is not the chosen herb.  Whilst supporting the immune system, Echinacea also helps to stimulate the lymphatic system, helping to drain unwanted materials from the tissues.  Echinacea is a safe herb for cats and dogs, however it should only be used short term, for 1 to 2 weeks maximum. (Tilford et al 2009)

-CoQ enzyme10 I have been placing a very small amount of this enzyme into Olivers food for the last 3 months.  As CoQ10 is known to assist respiratory function and prevent allergies, I thought it might assist with the sinusitis and asthma.  CoQ10 is also well known for its use to improve heart function. (Tilford et al 2009)  It can also be rubbed directly onto inflamed gums if your cat shows signs of gingivitis.  Over the last month, my cat has had very few asthma attacks and in the last 2 weeks only one asthma attack.  Could it be the CoQ enzyme 10?  Im not sure but Im going to keep giving it to Oliver as it can only be of assistance to him.

-Methyl Sulphonyl Methane (MSM) This supplement is known to prevent food allergies, reduce heartburn, ease digestive problems, assist arthritis, reduce muscular pain and improve lung function.  This could easily be added to Olivers supplement powder mix.  Over time it could assist with his arthritis and ease any muscle pain associated with old age and lack of exercise. MSM is a natural anti-inflammatory. 

-Acupuncture         Although not classed as a supplement, acupuncture has now become part of Olivers healing process.  I take Oliver to a Veterinarian who practices alternative treatments on pets including acupuncture.  The results have been really good.  Oliver really likes it; the relaxed state he blissfully falls into is fascinating to watch.  As the needles are placed into his body, he surrenders to the new flow of energy, as channels are unblocked.  If I hadnt seen it on numerous occasions I wouldnt have believed it could help.  Oliver presently has an acupuncture session every 6-8 weeks.

In regards to treating blocked sinuses, I mix 10ml saline solution with half a capsule of probiotic powder and a few drops of colloidal silver.  Then, using a 5ml plastic dropper I put the mixture up his nostrils to give him a nose and sinus flush.  This idea came from The Holistic Cat' written by J. Coscia.  It works almost immediately and has such incredible results.  When Oliver is blocked up in his nasal passages, this flush causes him to perform huge sneezes.  This in turn clears his sinuses and nasal passages.  His breathing returns to normal and his appetite is restored.  I would highly recommend this practice for any cat with blocked sinuses. (Coscia 2005)

It is also important to note that Oliver also takes a prescription only supplement called Calcitriol for his impaired kidneys.  Calcitriol is an active form of vitamin D, which in a healthy cat is produced by the kidneys.  This is incredibly important for the absorption of calcium in his body.  If your cat or dog has Kidney problems, please read my article on Supplementing Cats & Dogs with Impaired Kidneys.

In regards to the use of supplements for cats and dogs, in my opinion my cats immune system is stronger than it has been in many years.  I am however aware that too many highly concentrated herbs over time can overwork the liver and kidneys.  With this in mind I always administer very small doses of herbs, research their potential side effects and determine how long they can be safely given. 
I am still learning, and as a result, hope that I am doing more good than harm.  However, given the alternative to return to endless veterinary trips and pharmaceutical drugs, I certainly choose to keep on learning how nutrients can be used to increase my pets health and longevity.

In my opinion, with good nutrition and an absence of pharmaceutical drugs, my cat now has a fighting chance to live a few more years.  My only regret is that I did not start learning about diet and nutrition a long time ago.  I believe that all of the ailments Oliver now contends with are from his many years on commercial pet food and pharmaceutical drugs.  However, my aim is to provide him with the best nutrients so that his body has the tools to fight existing ailments and become stronger in the process. Adding supplements to my pets diets is certainly a work in progress that is beneficial, and so far, has been incredibly rewarding.

References:
Allegretti, J. & Sommers, K D.V.M. 2003, The Complete Holistic Dog Book, Home Health Care for our Canine Companions. Celestial Arts, USA

Billinghurst, I 1993, Give your dog a bone, Warrigal Publishing, Australia.

Goldstein, R.S. V.M.D. & Goldstein, S.J. 2005, The Goldsteins Wellness & Longevity Program Natural Care for Cats and Dogs. TFH Publications USA.

Brown, A 2006, The Whole Pet Diet, Eight weeks to a Great Health for Dogs and Cats. Celestial Arts, USA.

Coscia, J. A, 2005, The Holistic Cat, A Complete Guide to Wellness for a Healthier, Happier Cat. North Atlantic Books, USA.

Khalsa, D. 2009, Natural Dog, A Holistic Guide for Healthier Dogs. Bowtie Press, California.

Messonnier, S, 2001, Natural Health Bible for Dogs and Cats Three Rivers Press, New York.

Olson, L 2010, Raw & Natural Nutrition for Dogs, The definitive guide to homemade meals. North Atlantic Books, USA.

Pitcairn, R. H. & Pitcairn, S. H, 2005, Dr. Pitcairns guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats. Rodale Inc, USA.

Poveromo, M. 2010, To Your Dogs Health. Poor Mans Press, Canada.

Puotinen, C.J. 1999, Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats. Keats Publishing, USA.2006)

Schultze, K.R 2008, Natural Nutrition for Cats, The Path to Perfect health. Hay House, USA.

Tilford, G.L. & Wulff, M.L. 2009. Herbs For Pets. Second Edition. BowTie Press, USA.

Wolfe, D. 2009. Superfoods. The food and medicine of the future. North Atlantic Books, U.S.A.

Internet references:
Livestrong.com, May 2010. Article, Borage Seed Oil Side Effects.

PureGreen Foods Grower direct certified organic wheatgrass and alfalfa.

Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia Website. Article on, Probiotic.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Probiotic


Pregnancy, Lactation, Puppies and Kittens


During pregnancy
Pregnant cats and dogs require a highly nutritious diet that is made up of a wide variety of food produce.

During the first 6 weeks of a dog pregnancy, food requirements remain the same as before pregnancy.  The temptation to overfeed should be avoided at this time.  Cats however are different, their food intake increases as soon as they are pregnant and they should be fed more at this time.

High quality protein and fat are essential for a healthy pregnancy and fetal development.

Around week 6 of the dog pregnancy, nutritional needs increase.  From here on meals should be given more regularly in small portions.  This prevents putting too much food into a body already pushed for space due to developing fetuses.

During the cat pregnancy, her body is preparing early for the developing fetuses.  Energy stores are built up throughout the pregnancy.  In the last 2 weeks, she eats twice her normal food amount.

Following the birth
When the dog gives birth she may loose her appetite temporarily.  Small, nutritious, portions of food should be offered so that she can maintain her strength.

As the puppies develop and become more demanding for milk, the mothers appetite should also increase.  Her food intake may increase up to 4 times the normal amount in order to provide the puppies with rich milk.

Feeding the puppies or kittens
When puppies and kittens are around 3 weeks old they can be given minced meat and bones.

Between 4-6 weeks old, the permanent teeth are ready to cut through and the demand for nutritious food increases.

At 6 weeks of age, puppies and kitten can be fed chicken carcasses, necks and rabbit.

Growing kittens and puppies require 2-3 times as much energy per kilogram of body weight than adult cats and dogs.


Why should food quantities be monitored for puppies, particularly larger breeds?
When there is a new puppy in the family there is a temptation to spoil him with overfeeding.  Whilst puppies do require more energy per kilogram of body weight than the adult dog, this still needs to be limited to avoid obesity.

According to author of, Give your dog a Bone, puppies should certainly not be overfed to ensure that growth is achieved slowly and gradually. The way you feed your new puppy will determine its health for the rest of its life.  Its that important. (Billinghurst1993)


At what age can raw meaty bones be introduced to puppies and kittens?

Between 4 and 6 weeks puppies and kittens begin to cut their permanent teeth.
According to Veterinarian and author Tom Lonsdale, puppies and kittens are able to eat chicken carcasses, necks and rabbits at around 6 weeks old. This coincides with the time puppies and kittens begin to cut their permanent teeth.

Does the cat eat more or less within a week of successful mating?
When a cat becomes pregnant she begins to eat more within the first week of her pregnancy, laying down early energy stores for the developing fetuses. (Lonsdale 2001)

Is it normal for a bitch immediately after giving birth to lose her appetite temporarily?
When the dog has given birth to her pups, she may lose her appetite temporarily. (Billinghurst 1998)

Dietary considerations during pregnancy and post pregnancy through to 6 months of age.

A pregnant dog at the onset of the pregnancy will normally, for the first 2 weeks, not need to increase her food intake.  However, the food she does consume should be, as always, of the highest quality made up of a variety of foods.

Diet for the pregnant dog

The female dog has a gestation period of 63 days, which is exactly 9 weeks.

Once the female has mated she will require more protein in her diet, more vitamins and more minerals. This means her diet at this stage should include more chicken wings, more offal (such as liver and kidney), more flaxseed oil, more raw eggs, more kelp and cod liver oil, plus additional supplements of vitamin B, C and E.  As vitamin C boosts the immune system and is a powerful antioxidant, it should be added to the diet throughout the pregnancy and into the lactation period. The dosage for vitamin C is a minimum of 500mg per 20kg of body weight twice a day.

Following the mating period and during weeks 1 to 5:

-Maintain the raw meaty bone diet
-Eliminate cod liver oil (it is high in vitamin A and can be dangerous to fetal health)

At this stage the puppies are growing very slowly, therefore the mothers diet does not need to increase in quantity. She needs to keep slim and active rather than be fed too much and put on unnecessary weight.
The diet should be made up of high quality raw produce, which includes vitamins B, C and E.

During week 4

The pregnant female may experience morning sickness.
Her appetite may decrease
Keep the diet simple; do not introduce any unfamiliar foods.

Weeks 6 to 7

The puppies are now growing at a faster rate and as a result the mother will require a larger food intake. As there is now less space in her body for large meals, she should be fed small meals at more regular intervals. This will maintain her energy levels without weighing her down by giving her a full and uncomfortable belly.

The nutrition density of food needs to now include:

-More eggs, more high quality meat, more offal, flaxseed oil and less fruit and vegetables.
-The raw meaty bones can be reduced at this stage
-The long, large bones can be eliminated
-During this time add extra kelp, Vitamin B, C and E to the food.
-Cod liver oil can now be reintroduced back into the diet.

Week 8
-The food should now be increased to one and a half times the amount of food she was consuming in weeks 6 and 7.

-Carbohydrates can be added such as cooked brown rice, whole meal bread and rolled oats soaked in water or milk. These complex carbohydrates should be no more than 20% of her overall food intake.

Week 9

-During this final week of pregnancy the puppies do not grow very much. As a result the mothers food intake can be reduced.
-The vegetables should be increased
-The meat and offal decreased
-The flaxseed oil can be increased.
-This altering of food ratios makes up a slightly laxative type diet, allowing waste material to pass easily.
-Close to the time of birth reduce the food to a quarter of normal food intake.

It is interesting to note that pregnant dogs in the wild eat far more offal and meat than bones, which dramatically lowers the amount of calcium intake and increases the amount of phosphorus in their diet. Research has shown that too much calcium in the diet at this time can cause soft tissue calcification and other birth defects.
(Billinghurst 1998)  In agreement with Billinghurst, author of The Complete Holistic Dog Book, warns that excess calcium leads to fetal problems.  However, it is advised that calcium is adequate for the mother during pregnancy as low calcium can lead to weak bones and seizures. (Allegretti et al 2003)
When the puppies are born and her appetite has been restored following giving birth, the quantity of her food needs to be increased.


Diet for lactating mother
Following the birth of the puppies, the mother can basically be fed however much food she wants, especially if she is supporting a large litter.  Her raw, high quality diet should continue and can be based on three specific meal types. These three meal types ensure that she provides high quality milk to her pups, whilst maintaining her own immune system, overall health and energy.
1. Raw meaty bones
2. Meat and vegetable raw patty mix
3. Fortified Milk

1. The raw meaty bones should be made up of raw chicken necks, wings and carcasses. Meaty bones from the chicken provide high quality protein, a balance of calcium and phosphorus, omega 6 and a concentrated source of energy; the fat. If raw meaty bones are refused, they should be minced and incorporated into the patty mix.
2. The raw meat and vegetable raw patty mix. The patty mix should have a ratio of 20-40% vegetables and 60-80% minced meat plus supplements. The following recipe is to make a total mixture of 2kg.
Recipe for Meat and Vegetable Raw Patty Mix.

20-40% raw pulped/crushed vegetables and fruit (choose from)

Silver beet
Spinach
Celery
Carrots
Sugar beet
Tomatoes
Apples
Bananas
Pears
Berries

60-80% minced raw meat (choose from the following)
Chicken
Lamb
Kangaroo
Beef
Rabbit

Supplements including offal (include all of the following)

200ml plain live yoghurt
3-5 eggs
3-4 tbs flaxseed oil
lambs liver (this should be approx 10% of all meat content)
1-2 cloves garlic
3-4 tbs kelp
Vitamins B and C
230g cottage cheese
2 tbs brewers yeast

All of the ingredients should be of a high human grade quality, preferably organic. 

Other additions to the mix can include Vitamin A (for the immune system and the internal lining of mammary glands) and extra essential fatty acids such as salmon oil and borage seed oil. 

During lactation, the mother will also require extra calcium in the form of synthetic calcium supplements.  This is the only time whilst feeding a raw meaty bone diet that she will require calcium in excess of what the bones can give her.

Cod Liver Oil should also be added.  A 25kg dog should be given 3-4ml daily.

B and C vitamins can be given without danger of excess, as they will easily pass through the liver and kidneys to be excreted in the urine.  Vitamin C can be given up to bowel tolerance.  B vitamins can be given on body weight ratio to the human dose.

The ingredients, once thoroughly mixed can be divided into small portions and frozen.  When they are being thawed prior to feeding, vitamin E should be added.  A 25kg dog should be given 400iu Vitamin E per day.

3.  Fortified Milk
This recipe should be blended and served at room temperature.  Vitamins B and C can be added if the dog or cat isnt put off by this addition.

Fortified Milk recipe:

250ml                  milk
1-2tsp                  Flaxseed Oil
2                           raw egg yolks
1         digestive enzyme supplement (eg: bromelain)

The aim is to return the mother back to her original body weight.  If there are times of loss of appetite, Zinc and B vitamins can be added to the diet to assist.  An herbal supplement Fenugreek can be added to the diet to stimulate lactation.

During the second week of lactation the busy mother can be consuming double the amount of food. 

In the third week of lactation this may increase to three times the normal amount of food intake.

At week 7-8 of lactation the puppies can be weaned from the mother.  The amount of milk being produced can be reduced by: lowering raw meaty bones, stopping the fortified milk and increasing the ratio of vegetables to meat in the mixed patties.  At this time, the mother can be given long, large meaty bones to keep her busy and active.

If for any reason the mother is not feeding her puppies, replacement milk can be made at home for them:

Replacement milk for orphan puppy
250ml         full cream milk
20ml                  natural yoghurt
2                   egg yolks
10ml                  flaxseed or hemp oil
10ml                  honey
10drops         Vitamin B
250mg         Vitamin C (non acidic e.g.: Ester C)
(Billinghurst 1998)

At about 3 weeks of age the puppies become interested in the food their mother is eating.  At this time they can be introduced to a raw, nutritious diet that will lay down the foundations for health, longevity, growth and energy.

The puppy diet 3-5 weeks old
This is the time when the puppy will be interested in his mothers food.  Therefore, this is a good time to introduce the raw meaty bone diet in the form of finely minced patties made of bone and lean meat.  (Lonsdale 2001)  The meat and vegetable patties can slowly be introduced prior to starting on raw meaty bones.

A highly nutritious puppy porridge recipe from author of Grow Your Pups With Bones, can also form part of the diet at this stage:

Puppy Porridge
100g                  soaked oatmeal porridge (in water)
1 tsp                  honey
1 tsp                  olive oil
1 tsp                  brewers yeast powder
2-3 tbs         pulped vegetables and or fruit
1 tbs                  shredded coconut
1/8 tsp         kelp powder
2                  egg yolks                                     (Billinghurst 1998)

Once the puppies begin to cut their permanent teeth, small soft bones can be introduced such as chicken or rabbit carcasses and chicken necks. (Lonsdale 2001)

The puppy diet from 4-6 weeks to 6 months old
Based on the BARF diet for pups by Dr Billinghurst, the diet should consist of raw meaty bones, raw vegetable and lean mince patties.

The raw meaty bones can be fed on their own:
-Chicken necks
-Chicken wings
These bones are soft and small, therefore suitable for puppies.

The recipe for the:
Raw Vegetable and Mince Meat Patties

1kg raw crushed vegetables* and fruit*
1kg finely minced lean meat (chicken, beef, lamb, kangaroo)
200g                           plain, low fat yoghurt
3                           raw free-range eggs (yolk and egg white)
2 to 3 tbs                  flaxseed oil
200g                           lambs liver
1 to 2          cloves of garlic (only if your pet likes the taste!)
2 to 3 tbs                  kelp powder
2g                           Vitamin C
2g                           B Vitamins (Brewers Yeast)
2.5g                           Calcium carbonate powder

The mixture can be separated into small 100g packages and frozen for convenience.

Vitamin E should be added to the patty just prior to feeding time. 

The amount of Vitamin E is: 5kg body weight = 100iu Vitamin E/daily

Cod Liver Oil should also be added upon feeding.  

The amount of Cod Liver Oil is:  5kg body weight = 1-2ml/daily

The calcium added is to balance the high phosphorus levels in the meat and offal.  The general rule is for every 150 grams of meat, 300mg of calcium carbonate should be added.  Fortunately when feeding raw bones there is no need for synthetically added calcium.

*Vegetables that can be used for the patties are: silver beet, spinach, celery, and root vegetables such as carrots and sugar beets.

*Fruits that can be added include: tomatoes, apple, orange, mangoes, and bananas

The ratio of vegetables to lean mince in the patties should, over time, be changed to include more vegetables and less meat. This prevents the puppy from receiving too much protein and an excessive growth rate, both of which can cause skeletal problems, especially in the larger breed dogs.

To increase variety to the puppys diet, healthy food scraps and an occasional porridge meal can be added as well.  Healthy scraps for example are left over rice, scrambled egg, cottage cheese, fruit salad and plain yoghurt.

Large bones should also be given to the puppy so that he can chew the cartilage from the ends and obtain lots of exercise and teeth cleaning in the process.  This activity also assists teeth that are cutting through. (Billinghurst 1998)

Nutrients found in the raw meaty bone diet for puppies:

Raw Meaty Bones provide most of the protein, fat, minerals and vitamins a puppy needs to be healthy.  They are however short in B vitamins.

Fat found in the chicken bones provides a balance of essential fatty acids and fat-soluble vitamins.  In particular, chicken wings contain lots of iron in the marrow. 

Chicken produce is always from a young bird, therefore there are no toxins, and the bones are soft and a great size for puppies cutting their teeth.

As raw meaty bones are naturally balanced in calcium and phosphorus, calcium supplements are not required.  If added to a raw meaty bone diet, they could do more harm than good as excessive calcium can lead to skeletal problems.

Information on the supplements, which form part of the puppys diet

B Vitamins are essential to maintain a healthy puppy.  In particular vitamin B6 assists in the absorption of minerals.  A lack of B6 can cause a lack of appetite, anaemia and nausea.  As all the B vitamins are water soluble, excess of them is not a problem and will be easily excreted out of the body by the kidneys.

Vitamin C is the, safest and least toxic vitamin…” (Billinghurst 1993) Vitamin C can be given up to bowel tolerance on a daily basis.  A starting amount is 50mg Vitamin C per kilo of body weight.  Every cat and dog is different.  If the Vitamin C causes diarrhea then youve given too much.  Vitamin C assists the immune system, reduces inflammation, it is an antioxidant destroying dangerous free radicals, assists in the formation of red blood cells, assists in the uptake of iron from the digestive tract and is strongly recommended for pregnant mothers and during lactation. (Billinghurst 1998)

Vitamins A and D are supplied in the cod liver oil supplement.  Cod Liver oil should be given, at least 1 teaspoon (5ml) per week.  Vitamin A is essential for growth and development of bones and teeth.  It is important for the immune system, to maintain hormone levels, for healthy eyes and skin, eyes, the lining of the gastrointestinal tract, the urinary tract and the activity of the adrenal glands.

Vitamin D is important to prevent an unhealthy skeletal system.  Rancid fats can destroy Vitamin D, therefore EFAs such as flaxseed oil should not be given if its old, not in a dark bottle and if its not been kept refrigerated.  By adding Vitamin E to the diet, it can protect such oils and prevent them from going rancid.  Rancid fats in the body promote degeneration.

Vitamin E is an antioxidant and protects the fats in the cell membranes. It is vital to the immune system and is involved in the formation of DNA. In particular when feeding cod liver oil or flaxseed oil, Vitamin E should be added to prevent destruction by any free radicals if the oil is possibly rancid.  Vitamin E can be given daily, the average amount for a puppy being 200iu.

Brewers Yeast, being a popular and important addition to the diet is made from the dead bodies of yeast organisms is packed full of B vitamins, it is rich in phosphorus and contains a chromium compound known as GTF (glucose tolerance factor) which controls blood sugar levels.  It also contains the antioxidant selenium, which is known to slow down the ageing process, assist the immune system (by increasing antibody production) and assist in the treatment of arthritis. (Billinghurst 1993)  As meat and bones are in short supply of B vitamins, Brewers Yeast is a good addition to the puppy diet.

Kelp is the most abundant, iodine rich sea vegetable.  The iodine in Kelp helps to restore thyroid function, which improves and increases metabolism.  It is also abundant in other essential minerals.

Eggs are a wonderful source of protein, Omega 3, vitamins and given with the shell, they provide calcium too.  I usually save all of my eggshells, dry them out in a warm oven and then grind them into a powder using a coffee bean grinder.  I can add this to my cat or dogs diet if no bones are available.

1 egg shell = 1000mg calcium
A 6kg puppy not being given bones with the meat, requires approximately 500mg of calcium a day, which is a quarter of a large eggshell. (Allegretti et al 2003)

Garlic assists the immune system and is known to rid the body of internal and external parasites.

Plain yogurt with live culture is excellent food for cats and dogs, kittens and puppies.  Its high in protein, calcium, Vitamins B and A, enzymes, maintains a healthy gut and it is an excellent source of fat and calcium.

Liver is high in protein, rich in vitamin A, rich in minerals (Zinc, Selenium, Iron, Manganese), contains vitamin C, is high in B vitamins and contains vitamin E and D.  However, as liver is very rich in nutrients (like other offal), it should only be fed in small amounts.  It should only form 5-10% of the puppys diet.

Crushed or pulped vegetables and fruit  provide vitamins, minerals and fibre.

A list of what not to give or do with a growing puppy or kitten
-Commercial pet food*
-Nylon bones (they can cause bowel blockage)
-Its essential to not overfeed
-Do not use your puppy or kitten as a dustbin, unhealthy scraps belong in the trash.

In reference to commercial pet food, author of Give a Dog a Bone, describes it as, just a belly full of lifeless food.  Food that sits in a lump in a swollen, flabby belly of a thinly muscled pup that will never grow to its full potential. (Billinghurst 1993)  I believe this quote sums up beautifully why commercial, heavily processed pet food is not the way to a healthy, happy growing puppy or kitten.

As the puppy grows and develops, it remains important to not overfeed him.  With a raw, highly nutritious diet and access to the outdoors, a wild dog lifestyle can be imitated to maintain a happy healthy dog.  This means that he may occasionally eat soil, faeces from another animal, the bark from a tree and of course a tasty insect that he proudly caught himself.  This behaviour not only adds variety to the diet but it gives the puppy lots of exercise, which can sometimes be far more beneficial than long, tedious walks on a lead.  Whilst walking with the lead is important to learn, especially in social settings and of course in places where there are busy roads and lots of people, playtime should not be underestimated. (Billinghurst 1993)

References:
Allegretti, J. & Sommers, K D.V.M. 2003, ‘The Complete Holistic Dog Book, Home Health Care for our Canine Companions.’ Celestial Arts, USA
Billinghurst, I 1998, ‘Grow your pups with bones,’ Warrigal Publishing, Australia.
Billinghurst, I 1993, ‘Give your dog a bone,’ Warrigal Publishing, Australia.

Internet references:
Raw Meaty Bones website. http://www.rawmeatybones.com/papers.php
Lonsdale, T. 2001. Article entitled, ‘Diet Guide for Domestic Dogs and Cats.’ http://www.rawmeatybones.com/diet/ExpDiet.html